Thursday, November 17, 2016

VIENNA SECESSION 1


VIENNA SECESSION 1
A Japanese Michiyuki velvet jacket embellished with silk mosaics .


It seems the Michiyuki in velvet appear in Japan in the 1930s , certain models with some Western influence in details , as buttons with buttonholes , collar , neckline . Many of them were made in West Germany at this period.


This Michiyuki I ornate is in very good condition , as new , maybe never worn before . In black rayon velvet . It is not old . 1980s ? I cannot say .The design looks influenced by the 1950s but it is absolutely not from this period. I noticed more they are old , more the velvet is heavy and not in rayon but silk .
It is very well made : bottons covered by velvet , snap fasteners covered with black fabric. An inner pocket with a decorative pleated edge .


I embellished it with my mosaics , made with vintage , upcycled silks . I will not explain how I do these mosaics ( it is my secret ) but the process is quite long and I have to hand-sew them one by one , which is not easy , because their thickness and that of the velvet . It took long time.....



When I created the silk mosaics , I had in my mind works of Klimt , his representations of women , with luxurious and colorful patterns on backgrounds and dresses . If many of these fabrics were coming from Klimt's imagination , certain of them were produced by the Wiener Werkstätte ( a production community of artist , working within the fields of textiles, fashion ,ceramics, silver, furniture, and the graphic arts ) , evolved from the Vienna Secession (which was founded on 3 April 1897 by Klimt and others Austrian artists).



In Japan , a very creative and dynamic period, From Taishô (1912-1926) to early Shôwa (1926-1950), gave to the traditional women's garments modernity, not in the pattern, because they are the same for centuries, but in the decoration. Kimonos and jackets were like modern art, with vivid colors mixing Art Nouveau and Art Deco motifs , patterns derived from European designs and adapted for traditional garments . For example , there was a style ( it combined straight lines and the curving lines of spirals and floral motifs ) know in Japan as the "Mar-Hoff style" , named after Emanuel Josef Margold and Josef Hoffman , from the ..... Wiener Werkstätte ! 
This anecdote gave me the envy to use my silk mosaics on traditional vintage Japanese jacket  ( Haori and Michiyuki ) .


MEASUREMENTS :
Free Size S/M. 
I love when the Michiyuki are worn open , the overlapping centre front panels not closed , it have a certain allure , more flowing ....


Sleeve to Sleeve : 55.12 inch / 140cm 
Length Back : 35.43 inch / 90 cm
Width : 45.66 inch / 116 cm + 3.93 inch / 10 cm when worn open
Sleeve length: 13.38 inch / 34 cm 

Black Rayon Velvet , soft and light , embellished with 34 silk mosaics , hand-sewn .
Lining black polyester .
Closed by 3 snap fasteners and 2 buttons .
Large graceful scalloped neckline.


Cleaning instruction : Dry cleaning .
Do not Iron .





INFORMATIONS :
Colors and Light may vary depending your screen.
Sometimes marking , irregularities or imperfect embroideries / colors , condition maybe apparent .
This should not be considered as imperfection and are the characteristic of vintage materials and craft method of dyeing

Thank you for your visit and interest in my work

Jenny Eve

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