Sunday, December 24, 2017



Shaw / Stole & Work on a Haori
For Elfje 

This antique Haori is dated Taishô era ( 1912 to 1926 ) to early Showa era ( 1926/1930 )
As the Haoris made at this period , it is very long : 98 cm , and the sleeves are 65 height . 

I don't know what sort of motif is represented . I don't find any references in my books .
Between the rod and the feather .
The fabric is a silk "Rinzu" ( thick Damask crepe ) which was the most expensive silk.
The fibers of the silk are in very good condition . No holes , no break on the marks of fold .
The problem , as it is now , comes from the bottoms of the long sleeves : they have spots and traces of black discolorations . 
I don't want to take a risk to ask for a dry cleaning .
First, because I thing so old traces cannot be removed , they are at present parts of the fibers .
Second reason : the inks in the motifs . 
And when a saw in the books , Japanese kimonos or jackets from early 20th Century , from collectors or museums , with traces and spots on them , I arrive at this conclusion ,that they are not washable .
My way to make that they disappear , will be to work on these "damaged" parts with an orange / gold silk , textured after I wash it , by hand . 
This silk will be cut in a vintage Obi , the same where I took the medallion embroidered , for the necklace "The Last Insomnia".
As I like to transform the Haori necklines , we will also see this orange / gold silk on the front. 

The lining is also fantastic . 
I don't know the name of this sort of carriage , full of small and funny Gosho dolls.

Rice-paste dye technique , with splashes in gold painting ( as we don't see them correctly on the pictures , they look more as humidity spots ! ) 

A dirty kimono in one of the most big private collection ( Khalili Kimono Collection )

Bottom of the Haori . All the motifs are different. 
As I work with "cold" light , the yellow is not in the warm shade as it have with a natural light . 


This vintage deep orange silk embroidered with metallic thread ( selected last summer )
will be the base work . 
As I have 3 medallions left , from the Obi belt , they will be embroidered on the stole .
Appliqués birds and butterfly will join them to make a spring dance.

The birds and butterfly will be cut in felt . The felt will be covered by this beautiful green / yellow silk embroidered with beads and sequins antique gold . 
After that , this silk will be embroidered with wool threads , in color harmony with the other fabrics .

Here are the birds and butterfly patterns :

I hope you like :)